Dog Training guru's... I need some info

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Super Black Eagle
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Dog Training guru's... I need some info

Postby Super Black Eagle » Tue Jul 08, 2003 3:12 pm

I have been working with my little pup a little bit. Mostly working on obedience, but a little bit of retrieving. Now keep in mind she is only 16 weeks, and I don't have an e-collar.

In the house I can throw a Dokken dummy 50 times, and she never looses interest. She brings it back to my general area. Though she doesn't run from me, she isn't very willing to give it to me so I can throw it again. When I do get it, and give it a toss, she goes after it just as hard as the first time. Ok, inside.... She loves the dummy.

Now, let's go outside, I have her on a 25 foot lead so I don't have to chase her. I give the bumper a toss, hold her steady untill she relaxes, call her name, and "BOOM!!" like a rocket she is gone. Full speed all the way there, but when she gets to is, she starts sniffing around for a real bird, and could care less about the dummy :cry: :? :evil: . If I throw her a wing or a bird, she is all "go" and will pick it up and and bring it back. :)

What are some of your opinions on this?

Also how can I teach the "here" command?
I think this dog came from the "MF kennels". :lol: :lol:

Please Help,
SBE
"If you were supposed to watch your mouth all the time, I doubt your eyes would be above it." - DBT
"I am good at what I do, and I take great pride. But I don't make much money, so I sell eggs and chickens on the side." - WSP
chance
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walking b/4 crawling

Postby chance » Tue Jul 08, 2003 3:51 pm

16 week old pup doing all that work! You have a six year old mowing the lawn and then wonder how to teach him to work on cars. Slow done a bit. It is possible to burn one out a bit. Remember too, that puppy has baby teeth and all that retrieving could damage his teeth and give him bad thoughts concerning retireving any object. Glad you don't have an ecollar.
It is time to work on obedience though. Sit, Stay, Heel and Here. Some will argue the use of Stay, but it is OK with me. The Petco in Southaven has a good obedience class that could get you started. Try it. Get a book that shows you, along with tells you how to start basic obedince. Also, try to make some of our club meetings. We have plenty of "experts" that will gladly lend you their expertise.
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Postby goosebruce » Tue Jul 08, 2003 4:29 pm

I wouldnt take a dog I didn't like to petco..... possibly the only place worst than a vets office for your dog to pick up something from some chinese $#!+ than will make it sick. What you might learn or not is up for debate, but personally, there is way too much chance of dog borne funkyness for me to take a dog in there.

You answered your own questions... in the house, no rules, 50 throws as fast as you can throw and she goes... outside, add rules, the steadyness and the checkcord, and suddenly its not as fun. Your dog doesn't know the rules yet, she just knows she doesn't like them applied. Quit 'playing' and then expecting work to be fun for her... take her outside to 'work' after being confined or whathave you, and slowly add the rules. OF course shes going to resent retrevieing made as work, when it has been fun inside... make her understand the rules, and limit the reteiveing for a few days, and she'll suddenly LOVE to work with rules.

Teefs coming in soon too, glens right as rain on that. Teefs coming in hurts to pick something up.. definelty makes a dog suddenly not like retreviing. Look for the little pin peepee puppy teef, and see if any are loose in her mouth... you'll start to find them around the house in the next few weeks! hehe. travis
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Postby fivemile » Tue Jul 08, 2003 5:43 pm

To teach her "here" or "come on", you have to first teach her to sit and then to stay. When she will stay, make her stay about 10 yards out in front of you, then, command here and start running slowly backwards.
Then, over few weeks make her stay a little further away and a little longer before you call her. She will catch on in short order.
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Postby mallard 187 » Tue Jul 08, 2003 6:59 pm

maybe you are going a little fast, but there is no reason a 10th month old dog cant do the same as a 2 year old. I would suggest "Water Dog " by Rishard A. Walters. It is an excellent tool. I have a seven month old who is doing excellent right now and loves it. I also have a 4 yr. old yellow lab trained on the same book and he is an asset in a duck blind. Please, start with the book. You may make mistakes and think you are doing something right. It is worth it to the dog and yourself to follow it. Your dog is still in kindergarden make it fun.
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Postby go24 » Tue Jul 08, 2003 7:24 pm

SBE, it seems to me these guys have given good advice. Lots of wisdom in their words. I agree, don't go to fast.

You've got plenty of time yet to work on the retrieve. The foundation of good training that results in a good dog is the basics - sit, stay and here.
These commands must be obeyed at once before you can build in more advanced "learning". Wolters book will give a great deal of advice on teaching "here".

My .02cents.
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Postby ducks&bucks » Tue Jul 08, 2003 8:14 pm

I have a 5 mo old Lab/Golden Retriever and I'm using the book Top Dog, not knocking Water Dog, it's just what I'm using and the book is a great tool. Just dont get discouraged or too excited if your pup moves faster or slower than the book says. Duke has been great at sit, stay, and here for a month or so. He does pretty good on heel and took to sit and here wistle commands on the first day. I was doing "force to the pile" for about a week with great progress. I say all this not as a guru by no means but from my mistake that I believe I made this weekend. I tried to add the remote sit in this weekend: which I now believe was too fast, because now he seems confused when I command "back" to the pile. He was doing fine untill I added something without proper repitition on the privious leason. Sometimes a dog will progress so quickly that you'll skip some inportant instillment of a leason. Just my $.02.
Good luck and God bless!
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Postby ducks&bucks » Tue Jul 08, 2003 8:15 pm

Oh yea, I haven't use a ecollar and dont plan to until anouther month or so.
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dukdawgn
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puppy dog

Postby dukdawgn » Tue Jul 08, 2003 10:38 pm

so you say you got a 16 week old, or the equivalent of 4 months old...( and they say you can't learn anything at Ole Miss)

Glen is right....big dog teeth on the way. think of it this way...you bite a hot steak, you learn to let it cool. but if you bite a hot steak over and over and over and over for two months, then before long you associate all steaks as hot and burning your mouth. same goes for dog that's teething and having to pick up bumpers for two months of that. it will form a bad opinion for retrieving.

Obedience begins with sit. No stay needed. SIT ----until told otherwise. Stay only adds a word to the glossary the dog is trying to build. Sit means sit, not sit for a certain length of time. Stay only makes your trip through obedience one more command longer.

Don't start remote sit by walking away, then calling the dog to you. That will encourage the dog to cheat, and advance towards you when you haven't commanded it. Teach sit, then start the remote sit by gradually backing away from the dog, and EACH TIME you will return to the dog to show her that you are not going to abandon her, and that its cool for her just to sit there on her own....shows her not to fret about being left behind. When you can sit your dog, walk 100 yards away, turn around, walk back past the dog, turn around and go back to her, without her breaking, then you will be able to teach "here" to get her to catch back up to you in about 5 minutes time. Jumping straight into sit and here together with remote sitting will only increase the time you spend teaching and distinguishing between the two commands.
bear
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Postby bear » Wed Jul 09, 2003 7:50 am

Until she is showing interest in retreiving outside, keep it fun and light with no rules. Only throw the dummy a few times and put it away while she is still excited. Tie a wing to the dummy with some plastic wire ties.

You need to make her a retriever holic and add the control latter.
Bear
chance
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faces

Postby chance » Wed Jul 09, 2003 9:59 am

SBE--good to meet ya last nite. Hope we did not bore you or overload you with info. Would love to see you every month. Get a chance and we can get together some Saturdays. By the way, we ain't always that crazy. We kinda get serious when the dogs are around.
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Super Black Eagle
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Postby Super Black Eagle » Wed Jul 09, 2003 3:20 pm

Chance, Duckdawgn, Goose, Dutch, Stan; Glad to meet and see all of you last night. I am looking forward to getting together for some training sessions. I did learn alot in the small conversations we had. Thanks for the encouragement.
"If you were supposed to watch your mouth all the time, I doubt your eyes would be above it." - DBT
"I am good at what I do, and I take great pride. But I don't make much money, so I sell eggs and chickens on the side." - WSP
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Postby goosebruce » Wed Jul 09, 2003 7:27 pm

d&b, I don't know what your considering ftp... but its an extension of ff, and ff would need to be firmly in place to do any meaningful pile work. I doubt seriously your there already with a 5 month old dog. A dog needs to be readyed for force work, and there would be no room for confusion. The waterdog book (and perhaps top dog, I haven't read it so I cant say for sure) never mentions force fetch in anything other passing... tossing some bumpers 30 feet away into a pile and sending a dog is not ftp... Your dog is doing it simply because he likes too, and wants to please you... that alone will never suffice, because as soon as his will to do something else overcomes his will to go to that bumper, he wont go, and you wont have the tools to correct him.

NOT trying to burst your bubble, so please don't take it as such.

Force fetch develops momentum... to a blind, to a mark, to a pile, to anything. Once basic ff is done, walking fetch and stick fetch teach that dog to go fetch, and a pile is an extension of that. Merely iding a pile and sending pooch, is a quick drive with bald tires and bad brakes... certain to crash. If the dog doesn't go, what do you do? Nothing... hes not equipped to handle it. FF is what gives the 2 of ya'll those tools, and the momentum for him to do it.

At 5 months, you should be working on ob, watching for sore teef, and doing simple field marks... introducing the dog to birds, and guns, and elements of the hunt. Save the pile work for when your both ready for it, plenty of time for that.

I'd suggest expanding your reading material. Amy Dahls 10 minute retreiver and Evan grahams smartworks books immedately come to mind, and the Dobbs tritronics book is a classic in my mind. The waterdog book was written 40 years ago by someone who was a writer and the owner of a superdog... it never mentions any problems that come up because that dog didn't have any, and the writer only had the experience of that one dog. If the dog hadn't been a wonderdog, the book would have never been printed. Those dogs are very few and far between, belive me.

Check out any dog fourm on the internet and read the questions. 90% of the problems encountered by people would have never happened with solid ob and ff in their dogs. I can't stress the basics enough. Even the most advanced retreiver progams on the planet have a standard of correction for only infractions of go,stop,come until advanced train. Because if a dog won't reliably go,stop, come you can't hunt him, test him, or train him in field condtions. Go is ff, stop and come are obedicence. Its really, that simple. The birds and the drive is in there, and if it isn't you can't put it there. The go, stop, come is your job, to instill correctly, and fairly to your dog.

I once had a friend ask me to come help her teach her dog to 3 handed cast. I asked her to show me what they where doing. She got dog out and put out 3 piles, and the dog bounced around when she told it to sit. She tried twice to get dog to sit, while she got in postion to toss a bumper and cast dog. I told her take dog home and teach it to sit, and we'd meet back up in a week. She didn't, and she never did teach that dog to cast. How can you get a dog to sit and take a cast of direction, if it wont sit? You can't. How you get a dog to always take your cast, if he doesn't go and you can't make him? You can't. Great field dogs are made in the yard. travis

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