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Breaking dog
Posted: Tue Jan 16, 2007 2:15 pm
by missed mallards
every since i have had my dog he has wanted to break. Only and only if "I" shot. Didn't do it to much in years past but has been he!! bent to break this year. Only a few hunts though.
Here's where the fun begin's. I tried tying a rope to him to give him a sudden stop. Nothing, Perfect, i mean he didn't even take a breath he was so steady. Then i stood on his tail, the same. i then took out the ole heeling stick, nothing. I was planning on slapping his rear if he ever rose off of the ground. Never got the chance. I even went as far as letting my brother shock the he!! out of him and that didn't even bother him.
Ya'll got any advise on what in the world i can do? My brother is keeping him and hunting him till the end of the season. I am hopeing to bring him back and fix "our" little problem i just don't know how to address the cituation.
Posted: Tue Jan 16, 2007 2:19 pm
by 70 sprig
I suggest you sell your damn e-collar !!!!!!!!!!
Shocking a dog to try and get him to move so you can correct him ranks right up there ...............nevermind , just think before you use your collar on the dog .
Posted: Tue Jan 16, 2007 2:24 pm
by Jeff
Just keep the collar on him and when he does break use it the way it is supposed to be used!
Posted: Tue Jan 16, 2007 2:25 pm
by Super Black Eagle
if he don't break with a lead around his neck, then hunt him with the lead around his neck.
Posted: Tue Jan 16, 2007 2:28 pm
by Super Black Eagle
I HATE the no edit function on the dog board...
Super Black Eagle wrote:if he don't break with a lead around his neck, then hunt him with the lead around his neck.
missed mallards wrote:...I tried tying a rope to him to give him a sudden stop. Nothing, Perfect...
Hunt him with the rope. over and over and over and over and over you get the picture. Do not allow him to break, don't even give him the opportunity.
Posted: Tue Jan 16, 2007 2:56 pm
by missed mallards
70 Sprig i did it when i was shooting. He (brother) would have remote and whistle in hand. I jump and shot while brother gives a quick sit whistle and any refusal meant hit the button. I can't edit my first post so I came off wrong.
I did give my dog a chance. Like i said he hasn't done it until this year and he went haywire trying to do it. I don't get my jollies by mistreating my dog. although if his life is in danger i will do what is nessacary to keep him safe, i.e. steading him.
Posted: Tue Jan 16, 2007 3:37 pm
by CF
Put the hunting on hold and train the dog after season...you are only going to make the problem worse......
Posted: Tue Jan 16, 2007 3:56 pm
by 70 sprig
Sorry if I mistook what you were implying , but I'm glad that is the case .
If he minds his manners with a rope on him then hunt him with the rope on him . Man there ain't no shame in helpin your pup harness some of the drive he's got if that's what it takes to keep him from endin up in front of a gun

Posted: Tue Jan 16, 2007 8:00 pm
by goosebruce
Make sure your bro is on the same page if hes hunting him. When dogs figger out different rules apply to different people and places, you got a lifetime of problems ahead. Hunt him with a rope, its only a couple more weeks. Let him break whenver over the next couple weeks, and you'll never 'fix' him. travis
Posted: Wed Jan 17, 2007 10:39 am
by Troy Williams
70 sprig wrote:If he minds his manners with a rope on him then hunt him with the rope on him .
Careful hunting a dog with a rope. Could get hung up and drown, hang, injure, whatever, depending on conditions. I wouldn't do it I don't think unless everything was just right for it. I'm not a big fan of tying a dog up and letting him jerk his neck to correct himself either. I've never done it but you are asking for an injury and it's not an effective training tactic I don't care what Waterdog says.
Sounds like some training is in order before the hunting trips. If you can't get it corrected then get some help from friends and dedicate some part of your hunt to steadiness. Get some success and then put the dog away. Maybe start over on the next trip. Then test the dog one day with an extended hunt keeping the corrections you used handy if he has a failure. He should steady up especially if he 'was' steady in the past. Sounds like you have let a bad practice and an expectation of going grow from the shot of the guns and subsequent succesful retrieves.
Good luck.
Troy
breaking
Posted: Wed Jan 17, 2007 11:25 am
by B3
Don't know how old your dog is, but once they get to breaking on a hunt it may be impossible to stop if it continues. The reward of the bird is greater than any rope , shock or booty whoopin you can give.
If you are going to fix the problem, I would stop hunting him and go back to training. Start with basics and gradually transition the training environment to be more and more similar to a hunt to the point that your wearing camo,blowing a call and shooting flyers (sounds like a hunt test hehehe)
The difference between these sessions and a real hunt will be that you have total control of the situation. Mainly you can have someone deny him the bird if he creeps or breaks.
I have a "hot" dog who has run only 2 hunt tests. He broke in a finished and 6 months later in a master. The main good that came out of both situations was I ran out after him and yelled for the birdboys to grab the duck so he didn't get either bird. He has since run well without breaking (knock on wood). I believe that if he had gotten either of those birds that he would have never been able to run a test again without being likely to break.
Good luck,
Bill
Posted: Wed Jan 17, 2007 11:32 am
by 70 sprig
Troy when I say " rope " I'm not talkin about givin the dog enough rope to let him hurt hisself . I'm sayin if he's gonna hunt him to tie him short to keep him from breaking .
So are you sayin that the ole 40' rope around the truck hitch may not be the safest way to cure a breaking dog ??

Posted: Wed Jan 17, 2007 2:15 pm
by Troy Williams
I hunt in some places where a piece of rope (enough of a piece to tie a dog up) could get a dog in trouble in the trees if allowed to remain on the collar while making retrieves. That's all I'm sayin'.
And I hope I don't have to answer that last question...Thinkin it was sarcastic.?
Troy
Posted: Wed Jan 17, 2007 2:21 pm
by 70 sprig
I agree , the rope should come off before the dog is sent and no , I wasn't expecting an answer on the second one

Posted: Wed Jan 17, 2007 6:11 pm
by greg cooper
Use a rope with a leash type bolt snap or circular snap attached to the end. The rope must be of proper diameter to pass thru the snap. Pass the rope around the dogs neck and tie a knot in it, forming a " slip lead" that will tighten up on the dog's neck but the knot will keep it from going slack and slipping off. Then tie the rope to blind, tree, etc and you can unsnap it when needed. The dog has no rope when he leaves for the retrieve.